The elevation rises, the oxygen level falls, and a euphoric buzz overcomes us. However happy it may make us feel, we realize that we really need to pay attention and be cognizant that we, uh, can't really fly. Suitably self-aware and restrained, we slide past packs of Vicuñas grazing on huge grassy flats. We pause to watch local Quechuan Indians tend their sheep, and Flavio tells us they speak little Spanish and don't use money. They're the ones responsible for the beautiful, colorful fabrics you associate with Peru, yet they live without electricity or running water in some of the most remote places in the country. It's fascinating and humbling to peer back in time at these ancient people; with a hard life lived at altitude, it's not easy to guess their age behind battered skin.