We left Otocˇac cloaked in dense and chilly fog, a welcome change from the sticky heat we had been riding in for days and finally a chance to use the heated grips. Soon we were circling wetlands and starting to notice signs for Plitvicˇka Jezera Park, promising waterfalls and, as far as we could tell, a snack bar. The snacks were mediocre, as it turned out, which is a lot less than should be said for the park. It’s not easy to describe how a few waterfalls can be truly magnificent, but Plitvice is otherworldly. Lakes that have been gathering for millennia spill over into each other, creating everything from low, tumbling staircases to massive cascades, all surrounded by turquoise pools and immense networks of tree roots. It’s the closest to the Avatar set you’ll ever get and well worth the $30 fee.