Cody lies just in the distance at the edge of the yellow stones, and it's there I must rest, plan another day's ride, have a beer, watch the sunset, do some laundry and smoke a cigar. Hard to ask for more than that. Maybe another beer (Snake River Lager, Jackson Hole, Wyoming). The Irma Hotel (1901), named for Buffalo Bill's daughter, is the centerpiece and retains a century's worth of cigar smoke, whiskey dreams, wild times and cowboy lore within its walls. Yellowstone, the world's first national park (est. 1872), is the West at its geologic wildest, with volcanic fissures still percolating after two million years. Active seniority.