For breakfast we ordered "the usual," which in Vietnam is "pho," or beef noodle soup. Pho is a perfect example of a balance of the five flavors: salty, sweet, sour, bitter and hot. The broth was delicious, even when we ate it perched on tiny, child-sized plastic chairs. Out of Than Uyen, we encountered a bewildering array of the colorful tribal people who almost exclusively populate the highlands. Our path along Route 32 was a picture-perfect series of turns zigzagging into the Hoang Lien Son mountains as we entered tribal Dao (pronounced Zao) territory. The Dao were out in force on the water-filled rice terraces, working against the clock to finish harvesting, their red hats catching the light. The road wound spectacularly up to Tram Ton Pass, with majestic views of Vietnam's tallest peak, Fansipan Mountain. Next stop, Sapa.