It's a bitch of a long ride from San Pedro to the Chilean Coast, but we get so caught up in the drama of the great dunes crashing into the roiling Pacific, we ask to extend the route. That night we sleep on the edge of the noisy sea before toiling our way through one last border crossing. Well, we don't toil, but the guides do. We just stand around and eat more empanadas while they wade through the waist-deep paperwork. We're headed for the city of Arequipa, then Lake Titicaca, a name I say over and over just to hear aloud its potty-talk lilt. Four days later we'll arrive at the former Incan capital of Cuzco, where we'll spend our last afternoon wandering around South America's most famous World Heritage Site, the mysterious ruins of Machu Picchu.