♦ Doing a "game drive" at Kruger is kinda like a quickie safari. You spend a half day hunting Africa's Big Five: elephant, leopard, lion, rhino and water buffalo, only with cameras instead of guns. From our two hired Rovers (you'd get eaten on a bike) we saw three out of five (no leopard or rhino), plus about 100 other animals that amazed us, many of which we'd never heard of. No Africa Safari U.S.A., this government-protected reserve shelters more than 50 million acres. The animal viewing was definitely a highlight, but perhaps more unforgettable were the two nights spent at the Protea Hotel at Kruger Gate. Edelweissaccommodations are always high-quality and memorable, but this place was enchanting, and it wasn't just the amazing food or the wild monkeys hanging about the elevated, open-terrace lobby either. The nights at Kruger Gate were so special because we'd gotten to know each other so well. We'd shared so much by that point. South Africa had become a part of us, and in that sense, we'd become a part of each other.