On the fourth day we tasted the tourist's life with an hour-long ferry ride through the heart of Geiranger Fjord, a distinguished UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sheer, thousand-foot black granite cliffs, cut by the occasional waterfall or menacing rock form, reflect sinister patterns on the calm, inky-black surface below. The day's real highlight, however, was the road out of Gerianger and up to the 4843-foot summit of Mount Dalsnibba. Called "Eagle's Pass," this epic climb once again begins with a fast, flat section squeezed between fjord and bluff, then climbs rapidly through a succession of a dozen-odd peg-dragging hairpins that take us above the snowline, over the summit and into cold, desolate alpine meadows. No wonder locals have nicknamed this the "Summer to Winter" road.