Riding - Motorcyclist Magazine

The Vierzylinder (German for "four-cylinder") is BMW's main office building, said to have been designed to resemble an engine.

The Vierzylinder (German for "four-cylinder") is BMW's main office building, said to have

Chris has been riding since he began his musical career, working his way from a Yamaha SR500 to a V-Max and later a YZF-R1, before settling on a race-prepped YZF-R6 and a Suzuki SV650. Doug started on a Harley-Davidson Softail before moving onto a V-Rod and a Suzuki GSX-R1000, with the occasional BMW loaner thrown in. Dave's career on two wheels could fill a separate article, but watching the speed and agility he displayed on the technically challenging Austrian roads tells me he is one seriously accomplished road rider. We settle into a natural pace at which everyone is comfortable.

As fast as we ride, Dave is mindful of the 60-kph (37-mph) speed limits in town, and we soon arrive at the entrance to the Grossglockner Pass. Here we break to marvel at the huge waterfalls and a helicopter flying supplies up through the pass as Dave gives us the Reader's Digest version of the tourist speech. For Doug and Chris it's their first experience riding in Europe, and they're finding it hard to conceal their excitement. With views of the Pasterze glacier, the technically challenging road crosses the Alps at 8200 feet, and the panorama that greets us makes our eyes water. Wanting to absorb it, we take a break to enjoy the moment and eat lunch at the busy restaurant at the top. Whether it was due to the lack of oxygen or our adrenal glands, you couldn't knock the smiles of our faces with a shovel.

BMWs of all persuasions are represented in the museum, such as (left to right) this early R37 twin, 2002 sports car and infamous Isetta mini.
BMWs of all persuasions are represented in the museum, such as (left to right) this early

The remainder of the day we ride hard and fast with Dave on point, crossing many more passes before resting at the Almhof Hotel in Italy, where BMW keeps a selection of testbikes. Timmelsjoch, Staufenpass, Jaufenpass, Sarentino...the names are all running together, as are the incredible images that have overloaded my brain. One moment we're on top of a mountain staring out at vast walls of rock framing huge panoramic views. Minutes later we're threading our way through peaceful valleys blanketed in thick, green grass and vivid patches of multi-colored wild flowers. Old people in period clothing walk farm animals beside the road, and local churches stand proud and tall as we enter centuries-old villages. And then we're outside a small caf, letting the sun warm our bones over coffee and it's as though the world has stood still for centuries. Crossing 15 mountain passes by the end of the day feels as intense as riding every session at a track day.

We wake to the sound of cowbells in the meadows and find low-lying clouds blanketing the valley-if Heidi came running over the hill with a jug of milk it wouldn't surprise us. Oliver from the hotel offers us an F800GS and R1200R, and soon we're strafing apexes like lunatics. Off the map much of the time, we ride through a bunch more mountain passes, hidden valleys and small towns untouched by the outside world. Able to ride like the wind, speak fluent English and answer our questions about the countryside, Oliver is the consummate guide as we explore the beautiful world he calls home. At times we pause to absorb the majesty of the Dolomites, and our conversation gets animated as we relive the last series of intense switchbacks. But always we are in awe of the majestic mountains that stand silently, watching us ride.

After sipping coffee and swapping stories back at the Almhoff, we saddle up to head for Garmish, where we've been invited to attend the world-famous BMW rally. Tucked in behind Dave and on the gas, the ride is as exciting as it is spectacular. The Dolomites become the Alps again, and back in Germany we arrive at the small town before sundown. We make a quick visit to the event for dinner at the beer tent before heading back to our hotel.

Chris looks pensive as he contemplates throwing his leg over the massive Megamoto.
Dave on point dropping down from lunch on the first day. He's been riding the Alps for a long time and it shows.
Dave on point dropping down from lunch on the first day. He's been riding the Alps for a l

We find the small town bathed in sunlight, distant snow-capped mountains framing the view as scores of BMWs whoosh by. BMW Motorrad's new CEO, Henrich Von Kuenhiem, is on site, and from his conversation about his latest dirtbike adventures, it's obvious he's enthusiastic about coming over to the two-wheeled side of the business. The place is packed with Beemers of all ages from every corner of Europe, and there isn't a trailer to be seen. We enjoy stunt shows, off-road demonstrations and lunch before it's time to saddle up again.

Leaving Garmish, we have one more mad, adrenaline-fueled autobahn adventure en route to Dave's house. With the clock working against us and Bibs preparing dinner, we take off for Munich and twist the throttle. Hitting 150 mph, the big K-bike starts to pitch and roll like an ocean liner in a storm but thankfully stays on line, as Dave isn't slowing. We ease off to 120 mph and minutes pass before our senses adjust to the speed. Soon, having to dip under triple-digits for slower cars becomes frustrating. We make it to the city in record time and are pretty buzzed from the ride. It's been the opportunity of a lifetime to get to know Dave, hang out with Chris and Doug, and ride BMWs through the Alps and Dolomites. For Doug it's been a chance to spend time with his brother and family, and we all have new friends on our contacts list. But there's no chance of getting melancholy over our last dinner, as Dave still has one more activity planned. A competitive aerobatic pilot, he wants to take us flying...

Everywhere in the Alps, the scenery is so breathtaking it's hard to keep your eyes on the road. The view was even better from the cockpit of Dave's plane (right).
Everywhere in the Alps, the scenery is so breathtaking it's hard to keep your eyes on the
"I feel the wind rush across my face like an invisible wave crashing over me, I started holding my breath the moment I left wondering what the day was going to bring for me, but there's no way that I could ever prepare for the scope of it all, for the chill in the air, the cold of the rain, the warmth of the day, I'm never going to be the same..."
-Doug Robb of Hoobastank, "You Need To Be Here With Me"
"I feel the wind rush across my face like an invisible wave crashing over me, I started ho