My route to Jordan is plotted in dingy orange highlighter on a superannuated WSDOT map. We could replace it every year for free, but maps, like jean jackets, gain value as they age until, when well-nigh perfect, they more or less vaporize. This one charts years of good eats, scenic vistas, Pretty Girls, flashy bikes, oases to rest and think. It also records whipping storms, downed trees, icy roads, and scores of unintentionally homicidal drivers: HC SVNT DRACONES. Smudges on the map.