The Motorcyclist: Mechani-Kinks

From the February 1934 issue of Motorcyclist magazine

Boys, here’s the first news broadcast to riders about the 1934 Harley-Davidson oiler. This oiler is efficient and should not cause any trouble, just the same, it is good to know about it. First of all, I want you to study the chart of performance. This chart will reveal many interesting things. Most noticeable is the fact that a motor equipped with this oiler will respond according to the way the rider controls his mount. In other words, if you are a high speed fan-with the gas open most of the time, you will find that the motor will require more oil than if you hit the middle range. For example, take a 74 solo at 60 m.p.h. On the chart, this will be the No. 2 curve. At 60 m.p.h., you’ll get only 270 miles to the gallon. This is as it should be. At 40, the oil mileage would be about 900. Some difference. Note how a sidecar job drags at top speed. This mechanical oiler really does just what they have always been expected to do. That is, give the motor oil according to the requirements. So, if you are hard on the handles you can expect to put in the lubricant. But, you’ll know it’s being ushered into the motor correctly.

There are two adjustments, one for low and medium goin’ and one for the speedsters. Now, look at the illustration and get acquainted with:

Control lever No. 1 is of first importance since it determines the stroke of the pump plunger. This lever acts with the throttle in relation with the work the motor is doing. Correct setting for No. 1 lever-set control wire between carburetor and oil pump so that when throttle is opened fully (strikes stop), oil pump lever lacks just a little, not more than 1/64 inch, of striking its full open stop. Do not pay any attention to the closed position of pump lever. Note: if control wire should break, a spring throws pump lever open to protect the motor.

Screw No. 2 has washers under its head to adjust low and moderate speed requirements. Factory setting was four to eight .002” washers as required, and four .012” washers on early pumps. Later pumps have 1/16” washer. Add more washers for more oil-take off washers for less oil. When re-adjusting pump, take off or add only one thin washer at a time. Do not remove the four .012” or 1/16” washers. These would shut off too much oil for safety. Note: On 74” motors there is a brass washer in addition to the steel washers. If motor is put into sidecar service, remove this washer.

Plate No. 3 shifts the cam, inside the pump and controls high speed oiling. To re-adjust this plate, loosen the clamp nut and shift the plate according to the marking on the plate. Move plate only 1/16” at a time. The original factory setting is indicated by a mark cut into the pump body.

No. 4 sets the oil rate for the front drive chain. Washers under this screw head govern the setting. More washers for more oil and, remove washers for less oil. This adjustment has nothing to do with the motor oil adjustments. The’ motor discharges more or less oil spray to the chain through the breather. This pump setting does not control this.

Remember that all lubricating systems depend upon good motor condition. A motor with bad valves, low compression, poor carburetor setting, timer points out of adjustment and very bad spark plugs will not get the most out of lubrication.

Another thing, remember that the oil hand pump must be in good condition and not leak. Dirt in the hand pump ball seat or a weak spring would cause overoiling. Do not make any changes to the motor throttle-controlled oiler until you are sure that all other parts are functioning properly.

Q-I have an old Harley-Davidson spark coil with only one high tension outlet. Later type coils have two cable outlets. I want to use the old coil on my motor. Could the other high tension lead be brought out for this purpose? Are these coils the same inside?

H. P.

A.-Well, Henry, old top, you might as well forget the idea. It would be quite a job to open the coil and bring out the other end of the coil secondary winding. These coils had the condenser inside. It is not easy to insulate a high tension wire so that it will not jump and break down before it reaches the plugs. The old coils have not the core construction, nor the mechanical make-up to try your plan. It might work a while, but you could not depend upon it. You know, the later coils spark on both plugs at the same time, only the valves are open on one cylinder while the other is firing. This takes good secondary construction to stand up under such high voltages. The secondary voltages run as high as 15,000 volts.

“Do you know anything concerning my wife’s whereabouts?” “She was wearin’ ‘em when I saw her last.”

Florist-Would the young lady like a dozen orchids; only a dollar each? Say it with flowers, you know.

Customer-Probably, but I don’t want to say too much. Make it a dozen carnations for a dollar.