The following day, we headed further up, enjoying the twists and turns and fresh air of the Sonoma coast. I was letting Hollywood lead, and much to my amusement, he pulled over to admire the coast at the exact same turn off I did my first time up. Telepathy does work! We headed up past Fort Bragg, and turned off onto an unmarked and unmaintained dirt road to a spot called Usal Beach that the old men from the night before had told us about. The road was steep and winding, and was perhaps a bit over my head for my perception of my own dirt abilities. It was a long, slow, and intimidating 6 miles, and I was too focused on the road to really enjoy the scenery. But the end result was so worth overcoming the fear. The road opened up to an expansive and sparsely populated beach with coarse black sand, enclosed by redwood covered cliffs. As I crawled out of the tent the next morning, I could barely believe that I was on a beach in California staring at two massive bull elk, grazing peacefully maybe 200 yards away. How is that even a thing?