Between Rabbit Ears and Muddy Pass (elev. 8710 ft.), we crossed the Continental Divide for the first time. For those who didn't pay attention in science class, this means rain or snow falling on the eastern slope will eventually make its way to the Atlantic Ocean, while that falling on the western slope will flow to the Pacific. From there we headed south, making a brief detour up and down Gore Pass (elev. 9527 ft.), where fresh chip-seal had us riding on the wrong side of the road for miles. We continued on through Kremmling to Silverthorne, then veered southwest over Fremont Pass (elev. 11,318 ft.) en route to Leadville, whose welcome sign proclaims, "Great Living at 10,700 feet." For a while in the 1870s, this silver-mining town was the largest west of the Mississippi. All I could think was how cold it must be in winter.