Colombia Motorcycle Adventure Log: Day 02

We find ourselves in a bungalow near La Miel River, just outside the town of La Dorada. It was a long day of riding, nine hours of travel with just over seven of actual seat time. Hailey is exhausted. This is easily the longest day she's ever been on a bike, and despite a stiff upper lip, by the end she'd had enough. She collapsed into her bed seconds after arriving, finding a second wind only when the dinner bell rang.

We spent most of the day traversing Colombia's Eastern Mountain Range, making our way up and down and up again along rocky dirt roads and through tiny villages. We would stop for a snack, and locals would flock to offer the sale of food, trinkets and even emeralds (the mountains here are famous for their emerald mines). The kids here are shy, but could be coaxed to say hello and try on our riding gear with some patience. I asked one of the locals for a bathroom, and was directed to a small urinal right out in the middle of everything, near where several old dudes were dining. Very strange, but desperate times call for action.

We have been solidly within the Colombian rainforest, and it is intensely beautiful. The dirt roads are expertly cut into the mountainsides, but require constant maintenance as the forest seems intent on reclaiming its territory. Giant trucks full of building materials move with unnatural stealth, easing through the passes and offering just enough room for our tiny machines to pass. The weather goes from hot to cold and back again in moments, making us glad for proper riding gear.

An unexpected revelation of this tour has been my part in it. For years I have been an experienced tour guide, and with this title, the go-to for leading expeditions for others. With this comes enormous responsibility for the safety and entertainment of a group, something I do not take lightly. Before this day I can hardly remember a time when I rode somewhere without responsibility for the group. But here we are just following the lead of Micho, who handles all aspects of food, communication, lodging, bathroom breaks, and what-have-you. Pretty damned cool, though I find the complete reliance on another person to be a little unnerving. If Micho were to collapse at this moment, I would have no idea where I was or how to find help. Kinda strange, both to be so helpless and to be so comfortable with it.

We have a short day of riding tomorrow, so we will start late. Micho says he has a surprise for us in the morning. If it's half as good as the ride so far, we will surely be delighted!