Speaking of boats, don't skip the hour-long ferry ride through Geiranger Fjord, Norway's most dramatic natural feature. Sheer, thousand-foot granite cliffs, cut by the occasional waterfall or menacing rock form, reflect sinister patterns on the calm, inky-black surface of the fjord. The real highlight, however, comes when you roll off the boat and out of Geiranger, up toward the 4,843-foot summit of Mount Dalsnibba. Called Eagle's Pass, this epic climb once again begins with a fast, flat section squeezed between fjord and bluff, and then climbs rapidly through a dozen-odd peg-dragging hairpins that take you above the snowline and over the summit into the cold, desolate alpine meadow above. Appropriately, locals have nicknamed this the "Summer to Winter" road.