Tough Times Tour

Alex (right) and I mug for... 

   

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Alex (right) and I mug for the camera outside the Bike Shack in beautiful Bozeman with founder Nathan Houser (center), who graciously gave me a used rear Metzeler to keep the V-Strom moving.

The next morning, Alex said he needed an oil change, and the Suzuki could use a rear tire. A new one would cost a lot of money, but it's the smart thing to do. My first call was to Nathan at the Bike Shack. He had a used Metzeler I could have for free. Perfect. Alex was impressed with this display of American hospitality. We both laughed as he said "Didn't cost me nuthin'!" We thanked Nathan and headed for Bear Tooth Pass. I just kept thinking of how lucky I am and how generous other motorcyclists are. We were both lucky to be climbing the 11,000-foot Bear Tooth with blue skies, puffy clouds and freshly fallen Labor Day snow still on the ground. If you ever ride that way, take Chief Joseph Highway (296) into Cody, Wyoming. You won't regret it.

The next morning we saddled up and rode out of town without having time to stop at the world-renowned museum. Entering Yellowstone Park's east entrance, riding through car-wheel tracks in the snow was exciting, but we had to keep going. Our plans were to see Yellowstone and Grand Teton Parks, then set up camp in Jackson Hole before nightfall, but we stopped to see Old Faithful blow its top. When I was a kid, it shot up what seemed like hundreds of feet every 15 minutes. Now you wait 92 minutes between shows and it only shoots half as high. Old Faithful didn't let us down, but as we rode off I couldn't help wondering what future generations would see. Scientists are monitoring ground movement under Lake Yellowstone, so this volcanic area could one day take on a very different look. Remember Mt. St. Helens?

Using my map-holding Cortech...        read full caption Using my map-holding Cortech tankbag as a picnic table worked.

Changes to subterranean water...        read full caption Changes to subterranean water levels mean Yellowstone's Old Faithful ain't quite as faithful as he used to be, blowing his top for about two and a half minutes at less regular intervals.

We stopped for groceries in Jackson Hole before finding a campsite for the night, right on the Snake River. After dinner and breakfast with fresh coffee, I realized how unprepared I was. Alex had all the cool camping equipment. It didn't seem like he was roughing it at all. Knowing he had another month riding around the Southwest, I invited him to stop at my house for fresh tires and hospitality before heading south of the border. That would be my turn to be generous.

It's time to say our good-byes. Alex is on his way. I'm aiming for Miller Motorsports Park outside of Salt Lake City, Utah, and round one of the American Historic Racing Motorcycle Association national championship. I won last year's Vintage Superbike title, and if I could borrow a bike I'd slap a #1 plate on it and spice up this ride with a race. Arriving at the track felt like visiting family. I camped in the GP garage on pit lane and everyone was generous with BBQs, ice chests and blenders. Alice Sexton even lent me her Cagiva Alazzurra for the race. Great people riding cool old bikes, the atmosphere doesn't get any better than in the AHRMA pits. After peeling off my leathers, I made room in my saddlebags for a couple of first-place trophies!

Back on the V-Strom, I'm off to the Bonneville Salt Flats for a run down the black line, just like Chris Carr and all the other gods of speed before him. Idaho's Craters of the Moon National Park is next. Then Twin Falls, right on the edge of the Snake River Gorge, a couple of hundred yards across from the site of Evel Knievel's ill-fated Sky-Cycle jump. I still don't know how he figured to land on the rocky spot where I'm standing.

They say all good rides must come to an end, and it's time to get back to the beginning of mine. My sister-in-law Jill lives in Bend, Oregon--right on the way. After another nice, home-cooked meal, I give her kids the trophies I won, return Jim's bike and start dreaming up another good, long route to ride. It's a big country, and there are still plenty of roads I haven't ridden...yet.

Let's recap the budget on this 10-day, 3200-mile outing...

Not bad for a memorable riding vacation. I was lucky enough to say, "That didn't cost me nuthin'" thanks to the generosity of family and friends. Your costs may vary, depending on how much you rough it. Like most motorcycle rides I've ever been on, this one was worth every penny!