There you are, stringing together tight esses through the rain forest when all of a sudden
Most American tourists head to Costa Rica for the sun and surf-at least those who don't intend to retire there. That's a pity. Then again, maybe not: It just leaves the roads less congested.
Dirt riders have enjoyed this Central American paradise for years, but you can only see so many sights when you're pounding through jungle trails. To really see the spectacular scenery, it's best to employ the twisty ribbons of asphalt that stretch from San Jose-the country's capital-to the multitude of remote villages and tourist attractions.
MotoAdventures (www.motoadventuring.com) is well known for its off-road tours, but the company is now offering dual-sport and street/adventure tours as well. (In the interest of full disclosure, they tried offering sport-touring jaunts a few years ago, but after three crashes in three tours, quietly shelved those.) All tours start in San Jose, because that's the city tourists will fly into, with prices ranging from $289 for one day to $2985 for five days (airfare is not included in tour prices). Depending on the type of tour you choose, you'll either ride a BMW R1200GS or KTM 640 LC4, both equipped with soft luggage.
Which tour should you opt for? That's entirely up to you. If you'd like to get dirty but aren't ready for the tight, technical trails that are popular with experienced off-roaders, you're a good dual-sport candidate. You'll ride a lot of dirt roads and connect them with paved forays on back-country pavement-some of it in less-than-perfect condition.
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Lago Hule (say "OO-leh") sits in the crater of a dormant volcano and is accessible only by
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This puente colgante orotina (suspension bridge) may be rather old and in the middle of no
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Should you like to log miles and see as much as possible, the street/adventure tour is for you. But be warned: You may still dirty your tires on an unforeseen detour. Thus it's best to have some dirt-riding experience. Costa Rican dirt roads can be surprisingly tricky with loose rocks, mud, hills-even busses! For that matter, as in many countries outside the USA, the paved roads aren't very forgiving, and are often tighter and slicker than Americans are used to.
No matter which tour you choose, you're guaranteed to have a great time. San Jose's traffic can be unnerving, but you'll be out in the country in no time. Before long, the cityscape gives way to a verdant, green landscape of small farms dotting the hillsides and the occasional village. There aren't any WalMarts or McDonald's or Starbucks, but they're hardly missed-especially by those who live here.
Most tours will head west to the Pacific coast. Wending your way down the mountain range, the temperature and humidity both rise as the jungle envelops the road. Motorcycles are clearly the way to go, as long lines of cars held up by smoking, slow-moving diesel trucks are but a momentary hindrance. Taking cues from MotoAdventures owner/operator/tour guide Larry Larrabure, you soon learn that passing is best done when the opportunity presents itself. On the BMW, those come up surprisingly often. Unlike their American counterparts, Costa Rican drivers accept the fact that motorcyclists will be past quickly and will often give you room.
Many of the beaches on the Pacific are favorites of surfers, and an overnight stay at the wonderful Hotel Marea Brava in Hermosa Beach (owned and operated by American Jamey Harmon) confirms this, as wave riders outnumber motorcycle riders. But if surfing's not your style, don't worry: You can watch from a hotel pool, get a massage on the beach or simply relax in your air-conditioned room.
By Mark Kariya
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