Street Savvy - Touring FAQ

In the decades our staff has spent fielding queries at Motorcyclist and its sister publications, Sport Rider, Dirt Rider and Motorcycle Cruiser, we've heard every question imaginable. Here are a few of the most frequently asked questions concerning motorcycle touring.

While most of us share an urge to undress when things heat up, it's just not the way to go. In fact, if you're wearing the right type of protective gear during hot days it will actually keep you much, much cooler than a wind-over-skin approach. You've seen all the mesh gear parading around. If you go this route, be sure to get something on the resilient side, something with small holes and a dense weave. The smartest styles have leather inserts in impact-prone areas. Of course, any decent motorcycle jacket will have an armor system. We are not big fans of mesh, however, because of its poor abrasion-resistance and zero versatility. Instead, we prefer a well-ventilated Cordura suit or a perforated leather jacket with overpants. Ventilation is important, but what you wear under the gear is the real key. Lightweight, long-sleeved, 100-percent cotton shirts and cotton bandannas for your neck are essential. Get these soaking wet at a gas stop, and when you ride off you will get an air-conditioning effect that's fantastic. Mesh jackets might dry your undergarments too fast, whereas a ventilated suit will keep you cool for hours.

First off, the widely hyped sales pitch "breathable and waterproof" is a farce. A material that breathes simply cannot be watertight. Just ask William Gore, of Gore-Tex fame. Gore-Tex and every membrane that's been invented to mimic it are very water-resistant, not waterproof. The only material that is truly impermeable is rubber because it's nonporous. Those Totes overboots we all used to wear are waterproof--damn pain in the ass they were to put on and remove, but no one can claim they leaked. Then along came riding boots with a Gore-Tex liner and its imitators, all of which claim to be watertight yet breathable. The pores are so small, they claim, that water droplets cannot enter, but moisture vapor (sweat) can escape. Not really accurate. All of the membranes are capable of some two-way transfer, but when you add seams, zippers or laces into the footwear equation you can be certain there is no faultless boot. Sure, most of the lined boots will keep your toes toasty during a little sprinkle, but for serious wet-weather touring there is no guarantee. We recently tested a dozen "waterproof" boots in rain, hose spray and bathtub tests and the one that outperformed the rest was Sidi's On Road Sympatex. It's our "waterproof" boot of choice. (www.motonation.com)

Of course, this is one of the oldest dilemmas known to motorcycle touring. First you need to maximize your packable area. If you have a sissy bar, add a bag support out back; if you have a trunk, mount a rack on top. Sling-over saddlebags? Think about an expandable style. One of our favorite two-up tour tricks is to send a box of clean clothes and replacement sundries to a destination near the apex of the journey. One couple I know packs a nice bottle of wine, candles and other goodies as a little midtrip treat. You can then pack your dirties and other items deemed unnecessary in the same box and ship it home. Scheduling pickups at hotels on the UPS Web site is a piece of cake. If you're camping, look up a Mail Boxes Etc.-type store online and arrange to send your box there.

Some tourers choose to bring only a few clothing items and seek out hotels with coin laundry. The AAA Tour Books are handy if you're going this route since they list coin laundry as an amenity. If you are suffering from a serious packing-space deficiency, keep in mind that you can always find what you need on the road. Instead of packing everything from suntan oil to ski parkas, figure that if the conditions go extreme there's always a Target or Wal-Mart waiting to dispense the tool, scarf or swim trunks that will make your life easier. Making sure your passenger has a good oversuit is another space-saving suggestion we've heard. An ultra-versatile zip-on suit like an Aerostitch, for example, which allows you to comfortably wear lightweight shorts and T-shirts underneath, can negate the need for an assortment of heavier denim items. Better suits can double as rainsuits, too, so you can leave that bulk out of the mix.

This is perhaps our number-one most frequently asked question. And, of course, the answer varies wildly depending on whether your bike is equipped with touring amenities such as good wind protection, cruise control and a comfy seat. The answer also differs depending on how long and how often you ride in everyday life, and might be completely altered by the addition of a passenger. Nevertheless, we do have a rule of thumb. Most touring riders consider 300-400 miles to be an ideal shakedown day, even though on that thrill-fed first stint it's easy to pack on extra miles in your ache-and-pain-free ecstasy. You don't want to squander your physical capabilities right out of the box, though. We once rode out with a newbie who wanted to push the first day, and he woke up the next morning with a throttle hand so crippled it ruined our 10-day ride. Many veteran touring riders will tell you the second or third day are the hardest physically because your mind and muscles are in the process of adjusting to long days in the saddle. By the fourth day almost everyone should be in "the groove," that nice zone where you can really run out some miles. So, what we tell people is that you can absolutely expect 300 easy miles the first two or three days, and up to, or even more than, 500 miles per day for the duration. Of course, if you're riding a 1929 Henderson your comfort zone might be conical, but for most of us the tail end of a tour brings the most productive, and often the most comfortable, days. If you're lucky enough to have a willing passenger you can expect 300-350-mile days to be your average maximum.