#5 - Texas
Hill Country
The Lone Star State is one big mutha, and a crossing, especially at midlevel, seems to take a dry, flat, windy eternity. Of course, there's more to Texas than what you see from the interstate. The western section in particular, with its tempting hills and canyons, invites a little two-wheeled exploration.
I discovered just how fun Texas hill country could be by sheer coincidence. I'd spent all day riding U.S. Highway 90 from Alpine to Del Rio. To say it had been a long day is a bit of a misrepresentation. I'd only passed one vehicle, a Border Patrol truck, and had to buy gas from a guy selling it out of a can on the side of the road. The radio on my touring bike spun through the numbers in search of a station for two hours straight. There's nothing like that kind of wide-open space for clearing the mind, but there's also a fine line between cleansing and numbing.
When I hit Uvalde I was planning to ride straight to San Antonio and the first clean, cool shower I could find. But while I was pumping gas, I couldn't help but notice packs of sportbike riders pouring off intersecting Highway 83. It was late in the day and they were obviously coming home from an afternoon of riding. I pulled out the map and saw that 83 led straight into hill country and a doodle of green-dotted back roads. How could I beg off such a promise of twisty fun?
I'd heard about hill country and how it was unlike any other part of Texas, and now I can say the same with great conviction. While it's not at a towering altitude, most of the sensuous landscape is high enough to nurture pinon, juniper and oak trees. After eight hours of riding in the 105-degree furnace of the southern Texas desert I was treated to a 20-degree dip in temperature and the cool smell of meadow grass and river water. In fact, the Rio Frio water looked and smelled so good as I crossed its winding tributaries again and again I was wooed into taking a dip.
One of the nice things about hill country is that it's situated in a corner of U.S. Interstate 10 that bends south in its west-east march, making it a perfect long-cut if you're traveling coast to coast. A kind of coffee break from the drone of the freeway.
The roads of hill country are fantastic for all types of riding. Many are straight or sweeping and a few offer challenging corners. All are hugely scenic and deliver you to an assortment of wonderful villagelike towns and historic hamlets. My favorites were Medina and (aptly named) Utopia, which was more than a bit like Mayberry. This region, about as big as Buddha's bellybutton when you look at a Texas map, is brimming with treasures. You can explore backyard antique shops, tube the lazy rivers, nest at one of the cute B&Bs or camp next to the area's caverns or waterfalls. Indeed, hill country is as beautiful and fun to explore as I'd heard. Big fun, even by Texas measure.
Don't Miss:
Bandera, the "Cowboy Capital of the World," and roadside apple tasting around Fredericksburg.
Season:
Temperate year-round.
Road Notes:
Water is possible across the road even when it's not raining.
More Info:
Try www.hill-country-visitor.com.
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